Nigerian Leather Industry: A Struggle for Identity Amid Global Demand

By AFP
Published: September 26, 2025

The Nigerian leather industry, rich in heritage and craftsmanship, faces a paradox. While the country exports a significant portion of its leather-primarily semi-finished products-to Europe and Asia, the final luxury items often bear no trace of their Nigerian origins. This situation has prompted local designers like Isi Omiyi to reclaim the narrative and identity of Nigerian leather craftsmanship.

The Global Landscape of Nigerian Leather

Nigeria is a major player in the global leather market, exporting approximately 90% of its leather, with Italy and Spain being the primary destinations. According to the Nigerian Export Promotion Council, these two countries account for about three-quarters of the total leather export volume. The industry generates an estimated $600 million annually, as noted by Oluwole Oyekunle, a researcher at the Nigerian Institute of Leather and Science Technology.

Despite this economic potential, the narrative surrounding Nigerian leather often overlooks its origins. Major international luxury brands source leather through intermediaries, who connect them with tanners in Nigeria. This process obscures the contributions of local artisans and diminishes the recognition of Nigeria’s rich leather heritage.

A Personal Mission: Isi Omiyi’s Boutique

In the bustling metropolis of Lagos, designer Isi Omiyi is on a mission to change this narrative. In her apartment, she has created a boutique space showcasing high-end leather goods, including bags, wallets, and shoes, with prices reaching up to $1,500. “Leather is part of our heritage. I can’t just stand by and watch others receive all the credit for work that we started here,” Omiyi stated in an interview with AFP.

Her brand aims to amplify the “Made in Nigeria” label, advocating for transparency in the luxury market. “I would like these foreign brands to indicate on their products: ‘originally from Nigeria’ and ‘made in Italy’ or ‘made in France,’ because most of them don’t,” she emphasized. This call for recognition reflects a broader desire among local artisans to reclaim their identity in a globalized market.

The Tannery Landscape: Tradition Meets Modernity

Kano, a state in northern Nigeria, is often referred to as the cradle of the country’s tanning industry. It is home to 11 tanneries, including Ztannery, which has been operational since 2010. The tannery processes goat and sheep hides sourced from Nigeria and neighboring countries, transforming them into semi-finished leather. Abbas Hassan Zein, the owner of Ztannery, explained, “We process from zero to semi-finished leather, which is 80% of the whole process.”

However, the journey from Nigerian hides to luxury products often involves a loss of identity. Once the leather is shipped to Europe for further treatment, it frequently emerges as “Made in Italy” or “Made in China,” leaving local artisans in the shadows. Modern tanneries like Ztannery primarily cater to large orders paid in foreign currencies, making it challenging for local designers to access high-quality materials.

In contrast, traditional tanneries like Majema, founded in 1932, continue to operate using manual methods. Here, artisans clean and dye hides on the earthen floor, preserving age-old techniques. Mustapha Umar, the tannery manager, noted, “Our customers come from the north and south, and we also export to neighboring countries such as Niger, Cameroon, and Chad.”

A Growing Movement: The Lagos Leather Fair

The need for a platform to showcase Nigerian leather craftsmanship led to the establishment of the Lagos Leather Fair in 2017 by Femi Olayebi, founder of FemiHandbags. This annual event brings together around 100 leather professionals, highlighting the potential of Nigerian artisans to create high-quality products. “There was a need for a platform dedicated to designers, products, and leather suppliers,” Olayebi explained.

Public and private initiatives are increasingly supporting the leather sector in Nigeria. In August, the Lagos state government launched a leather goods factory in the Mushin neighborhood, aiming to create 10,000 jobs. This factory is strategically located near one of the country’s largest leather markets, signaling a commitment to bolstering local production.

Challenges and Opportunities

Despite the growing interest in Nigerian leather, challenges remain. Olayebi emphasizes the need for better machinery, access to high-quality local leather, and improved training for artisans. The competition from global leather industry giants poses a significant hurdle, but the potential for growth is evident.

David Lawal, a brand executive at Morin.O, believes that promoting a distinct Nigerian identity is crucial. Many consumers are seeking a “timeless expression of heritage” through leather products crafted in Nigeria. This sentiment reflects a broader trend where consumers are increasingly valuing authenticity and local craftsmanship.

Conclusion: A Future Reclaimed

The Nigerian leather industry stands at a crossroads. While it has the potential to thrive in the global market, local artisans like Isi Omiyi are determined to reclaim their narrative and identity. By advocating for transparency and recognition, they aim to ensure that the rich heritage of Nigerian leather craftsmanship is celebrated rather than obscured.

As the industry evolves, the collaboration between traditional methods and modern practices may pave the way for a more equitable future. With initiatives like the Lagos Leather Fair and government support, the hope is that Nigerian leather will not only be recognized for its quality but also for its cultural significance. The journey toward reclaiming this identity is just beginning, but the passion and dedication of local artisans signal a promising future for Nigeria’s leather industry.