Paris Fashion Week Kicks Off with New Talent and Tributes to Icons

By AFP
Published: September 29, 2025

As the fashion world shifts its gaze from Milan to Paris, the Spring-Summer 2026 season of Paris Fashion Week has commenced with a blend of fresh talent and poignant tributes. The week began with shows from emerging designers like Weinsanto and Julie Kegels, setting the stage for a series of high-profile presentations that promise to redefine the luxury fashion landscape.

A New Era in Fashion

The opening day of Paris Fashion Week was marked by a palpable excitement, particularly surrounding the debut of Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, scheduled for October 6. Blazy, who previously made waves at Bottega Veneta, is stepping into one of the most prestigious roles in fashion, succeeding Virginie Viard, who took over after the legendary Karl Lagerfeld‘s passing in 2019. Lagerfeld’s influence on Chanel was monumental, and Blazy faces the daunting task of honoring that legacy while infusing his own vision into the brand.

Pierre Groppo, the fashion editor-in-chief of Vanity Fair France, emphasized the significance of this moment, stating, “We’re opening a new chapter, not so much for Fashion Week itself, but for what fashion will be over the next 10 years.” This sentiment reflects a broader industry shift, as approximately ten fashion houses have appointed new creative directors, signaling a potential revitalization in an industry grappling with declining sales.

Celebrating Icons and New Talent

The transition from Milan to Paris comes on the heels of a heartfelt tribute to Giorgio Armani, who passed away on September 4 at the age of 91. His final collection, showcased in Milan, was originally intended to celebrate the 50th anniversary of his fashion house but instead became a poignant farewell to a titan of the industry. A-list celebrities, including Cate Blanchett and Glenn Close, attended the show, underscoring Armani’s lasting impact on fashion.

In Paris, the spotlight is now on a new generation of designers. The week kicked off with shows from Weinsanto and Kegels, the latter of whom attracted Spanish singer Rosalía to her front row. Saint Laurent’s highly anticipated presentation at Place du Trocadéro is expected to draw even more celebrity attention, further solidifying Paris’s status as the epicenter of global fashion.

Notable Upcoming Collections

The excitement continues with Jonathan Anderson’s first women’s collection for LVMH-owned Dior, set to debut on October 1. Anderson’s previous menswear line received acclaim, raising expectations for his women’s collection. Similarly, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s inaugural collection for Balenciaga is generating buzz, especially after his successful transition from Gucci, where he was known for his streetwear-influenced aesthetic.

Other designers making their mark include Dutch designer Duran Lantink, who will debut for Jean Paul Gaultier, and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe. The week will also feature collections from Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler and Mark Thomas at Carven, showcasing a diverse array of styles and perspectives.

The Importance of Second Collections

While debuts are often the focus, the second collections from established designers can be equally revealing. Sarah Burton at Givenchy, Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela, and Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford will present their follow-up collections, which are typically seen as more indicative of a designer’s vision and capabilities.

Additionally, the week will spotlight renowned brands like Louis Vuitton and Hermès, alongside the return of long-absent labels such as Celine and Thom Browne. Victoria Beckham is also set to unveil her latest designs on October 3, coinciding with the release of a Netflix documentary chronicling her journey from pop star to fashion designer.

Challenges Facing the Industry

This edition of Paris Fashion Week unfolds against a backdrop of significant challenges for the global fashion industry. Economic uncertainties, including softening demand in China and renewed U.S. tariffs on European fashion exports, have raised concerns among industry insiders. These factors have prompted many designers to rethink their strategies and adapt to a rapidly changing market.

As the week progresses, the fashion community will be watching closely to see how these new collections resonate with consumers and whether they can reinvigorate interest in luxury fashion. The stakes are high, and the potential for innovation is immense.

Conclusion

Paris Fashion Week is not just a showcase of clothing; it is a reflection of the evolving landscape of the fashion industry. With a mix of tributes to legendary figures and the emergence of new talent, this season promises to be a pivotal moment in fashion history. As designers navigate the complexities of a changing market, their ability to innovate and inspire will be crucial in shaping the future of luxury fashion. The world will be watching as Paris reaffirms its status as the heart of the fashion universe.