Savile Row’s Tailoring Tradition Revived by New Generation of Apprentices
A Historic Craft Meets Modern Aspirations
In the heart of London, Savile Row has long been synonymous with bespoke tailoring, dressing everyone from royalty to spies. However, beneath its storied exterior, a new wave of talent is breathing fresh life into this historic craft. As London Fashion Week unfolds, the Savile Row Bespoke Association (SRBA) is showcasing the next generation of coatmakers, highlighting a significant shift in the apprenticeship landscape.
Surge in Interest for Tailoring Apprenticeships
Simon Cundey, managing director of Henry Poole & Co, one of the oldest bespoke tailors on Savile Row, reports a remarkable increase in apprenticeship applications over the past year and a half. “We’ve seen a big surge… of people applying for apprenticeships,” he stated, reflecting a growing interest in traditional craftsmanship.
Historically, apprenticeships in this elite tailoring district were informal and often discouraged. Master tailors were hesitant to share their expertise, fearing the dilution of their craft. However, the rise of ready-to-wear fashion prompted a collective effort among Savile Row tailors to formalize apprenticeship programs. This initiative, launched two decades ago, aimed to ensure that the intricate skills of bespoke tailoring would be passed down through generations.
Since the inception of the SRBA Apprenticeship Scheme in 2007, over 100 individuals have graduated, specializing in various aspects of tailoring, from coat-making to cutting. Apprentices typically undergo training for two to six years, culminating in an evaluation by a panel of master tailors.
A Changing Demographic
The demographic landscape of Savile Row’s workshops is also evolving. Jinny Seals, a veteran coatmaker who joined Henry Poole in the early 2000s, recalls a time when the average age in the workshop was around 55, and women were a rarity. “There was a bit of a drought of apprentices,” she noted. Today, however, the scene is markedly different. “Now… they’ve got piles of CVs for people wanting apprenticeships,” Seals remarked, emphasizing the increasing diversity among applicants.
Wendy Berberi, a 22-year-old who began her apprenticeship at Henry Poole during the pandemic, represents this new generation. Initially drawn to the fashion industry, she found her niche in bespoke tailoring. “I didn’t really think it’d be Savile Row because it is mainly menswear. But when I did start here, I really, really enjoyed it,” Berberi shared. Her experience underscores a broader trend: young people are increasingly valuing hands-on craftsmanship over traditional office jobs.
The Impact of the Pandemic
The COVID-19 pandemic has catalyzed a shift in career aspirations, with many individuals seeking stable, fulfilling work that allows them to create tangible products. Cundey noted, “There’s a high demand now for a different way of life,” as people turn away from conventional employment in favor of artisanal careers. “Learning a craft… it’s a safeguarding job because you only tend to get better as you get older,” he added.
This renewed interest in craftsmanship is not limited to tailoring. Across various industries, there is a growing appreciation for skills that emphasize quality and sustainability. The London Academy of Bespoke (LAB), located on Savile Row, has even launched a pre-apprenticeship course aimed at nurturing budding tailors. Seals, who teaches at LAB, highlighted the importance of sustainability in these courses, noting a “kickback” against fast fashion and its environmental consequences.
Celebrating Tailoring Excellence
The Golden Shears Award, which honors tailoring students, is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. Savile Row houses are showcasing the works of past winners in their windows during London Fashion Week, further emphasizing the importance of craftsmanship in contemporary fashion.
Dege & Skinner, another esteemed Savile Row tailor, has also seen a surge in interest, with four apprentices currently in training-an unprecedented number for the shop. Managing director William Skinner noted that all of the apprentices are women, reflecting a significant shift in the gender dynamics of the trade.
The Future of Savile Row
As the tailoring industry grapples with the challenges of modernity, the revival of apprenticeships offers a glimmer of hope. The commitment to preserving traditional techniques while adapting to contemporary values is crucial for the future of Savile Row. The enthusiasm of young apprentices like Berberi and the dedication of seasoned tailors like Seals signal a promising evolution in this historic craft.
In a world increasingly dominated by fast fashion, the resurgence of interest in bespoke tailoring represents a broader cultural shift towards valuing craftsmanship, sustainability, and individuality. As the next generation of tailors steps into the spotlight, they carry with them the legacy of Savile Row while forging their own paths in the ever-evolving landscape of fashion.
Conclusion
The revival of apprenticeships on Savile Row is not merely a trend; it is a testament to the enduring appeal of craftsmanship in an age of mass production. As young artisans embrace the art of tailoring, they are not only preserving a rich heritage but also redefining what it means to be a tailor in the 21st century. With a renewed focus on sustainability and quality, the future of Savile Row looks bright, promising to keep the spirit of bespoke tailoring alive for generations to come.
