Louise Trotter‘s Debut at Bottega Veneta: A Celebration of Craftsmanship and Heritage
Louise Trotter has made a striking entrance into the world of Bottega Veneta, marking her debut as the brand’s creative director with a collection that pays homage to the house’s rich history. This year, Bottega Veneta celebrates the 50th anniversary of its iconic Intrecciato leather weave, a hallmark of the brand that has become synonymous with luxury and craftsmanship. Trotter’s collection not only showcases her design prowess but also reflects a deep appreciation for the artisanal techniques that define the brand.
A Workshop of Innovation
During a preview of her collection, Trotter emphasized the collaborative spirit that permeates Bottega Veneta. “The most beautiful thing about Bottega Veneta is that it’s really a workshop,” she stated, highlighting the synergy between artisans and creatives. This ethos of craftsmanship is evident in the intricate designs that graced the runway, including a regal cape that required an astonishing 4,000 hours to hand-weave using 3-millimeter strips of brown leather.
Trotter’s innovative approach also included the use of colorful strands of recycled fiberglass, which were transformed into ethereal, furry garments that appeared to glow from within. The collection featured skirts adorned with magnified butterfly patterns, creating a mesmerizing visual effect as they moved.
A Nod to the Past
While Trotter’s designs reflect her unique vision, they also pay tribute to the legacy of her predecessor, Matthieu Blazy, who is set to debut at Chanel during Paris Fashion Week. Trotter’s collection retains the grown-up chic and textural sophistication that characterized Blazy’s tenure, while infusing her own aesthetic sensibilities. Having relocated to Milan with her family over the summer, Trotter has embraced the city’s style, drawing inspiration from its rich fashion heritage.
Her time spent in the Venice and Veneto regions has further influenced her work, allowing the colors and craftsmanship of the area to seep into her designs. “A slight feel of dolce vita. But my version of that,” Trotter described her approach, reflecting a meticulous work ethic and a keen eye for detail.
A Minimalist Presentation
The fashion show unfolded in a minimalist setting, with arches framing the space and guests seated on colored glass stools. The collection’s narrative was woven through the stories of prominent female figures associated with Bottega Veneta. One of the highlights was a tribute to actress Lauren Hutton, who famously carried a Bottega Veneta clutch in the 1980 film “American Gigolo.” Trotter reimagined the Lauren bag, revisiting a pivotal moment in fashion history when Italian and American sportswear intersected.
Hutton attended the show, charming the audience by revealing the contents of her clutch, which included a powder compact from her short-lived cosmetics line launched in 2002. Her candid remark about stepping away from business-“I hated business,” she quipped-added a touch of humor to the event.
Honoring Female Pioneers
Trotter also acknowledged Laura Braggion, Bottega Veneta’s first female creative lead, who helmed the brand from the 1980s to the early 2000s. Founded in 1966 by Michele Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro in Vicenza, Bottega Veneta has a storied history. By the late 1970s, Taddei handed over the reins to Braggion, who became known for her connections in the New York fashion scene, even assisting Andy Warhol.
Trotter’s designs evoke a sense of freedom and creativity reminiscent of the Studio 54 era, while also emphasizing the “classicism of Milanese style.” The collection featured tailored white shirts, elegant coats, and wide-legged trousers, showcasing Trotter’s ability to blend modernity with tradition.
Craftsmanship Meets Functionality
While some of Trotter’s designs appeared heavy for a spring collection, this can be attributed to her commitment to the intense craftsmanship that Bottega Veneta is known for. Trotter’s background includes leading roles at Carven and Lacoste, but she gained significant recognition as the creative director of Joseph from 2009 to 2018. A graduate of Newcastle University, she has also worked with contemporary British label Whistles and American brands like Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger.
During the preview, Trotter expressed her admiration for Bottega Veneta’s pioneering “soft functionality” in handbags. She reworked iconic pieces like the Lauren bag, enlarging and stretching its form, and celebrated the Cabat bag from the Tomas Maier era by adding a zippered pouch and introducing a clutch version.
Looking Ahead
As Trotter continues to explore the possibilities of Intrecciato, there is anticipation for her to delve deeper into the concept of soft functionality in ready-to-wear collections. Her playful designs, such as injection-molded clogs and fiberglass coats, hint at a future where fashion is not only about aesthetics but also about joy and creativity.
In conclusion, Louise Trotter’s debut at Bottega Veneta is a testament to the brand’s enduring legacy and its commitment to craftsmanship. By honoring the past while embracing innovation, Trotter is poised to carve out her own identity within the storied house, ensuring that Bottega Veneta remains a beacon of luxury and artistry in the fashion world.
