Demna’s Debut at Gucci: A New Chapter in Milan’s Fashion Scene

Published
September 23, 2025

The fashion world is abuzz as Milan Fashion Week kicks off with a remarkable debut from Demna Gvasalia at Gucci. This season marks a significant moment in the industry, with multiple designer debuts across major fashion houses. Demna’s introduction, however, stands out not just for its artistic flair but also for its strategic significance amid challenges facing the luxury market.

A Cinematic Introduction

Demna’s inaugural showcase was not a traditional runway show but rather a cinematic experience titled “The Tiger,” directed by acclaimed filmmaker Spike Jonze. The film stars Demi Moore, who, alongside Demna, attended the premiere, setting a glamorous tone for the evening. This unique approach reflects a growing trend in fashion where storytelling and visual art intersect, creating a multi-dimensional experience for audiences.

Prior to the screening, Demna teased his vision for Gucci through a communications campaign dubbed “Gucci: La Famiglia.” This initiative featured a capsule collection presented in striking portraits by photographer Catherine Opie, whom Demna referred to as “The Rembrandt of our time.” This blend of high art and fashion underscores Demna’s intent to elevate Gucci’s narrative while paying homage to its storied past.

A Nostalgic Yet Modern Collection

The collection itself is a thoughtful reimagining of Gucci’s iconic designs, drawing inspiration from the legacies of past creative directors. Demna’s work incorporates elements from Tom Ford’s dark glamour, Alessandro Michele’s whimsical romanticism, and Frida Giannini’s floral motifs. This fusion creates a fresh yet familiar aesthetic, appealing to both long-time Gucci aficionados and a younger audience.

“I love that Gucci’s history is not dominated by one designer. It’s a cultural movement,” Demna remarked, emphasizing the brand’s collaborative spirit. The collection, showcased in the historic La Borsa, the former Milan stock exchange, featured models parading like movie stars, capturing the essence of luxury and celebrity that Gucci embodies.

The Context of Change

Demna’s debut comes at a critical juncture for Gucci and its parent company, Kering. The luxury conglomerate has faced significant financial challenges, with a reported 14% decline in sales in the first quarter of 2025, following a 12% drop in the previous quarter. Gucci, which accounts for over half of Kering’s revenue, experienced a staggering 24% decrease in sales during the same period.

In response to these challenges, Kering recently appointed Francesca Bellettini as Gucci’s new CEO, following the dismissal of Stefano Cantino. This leadership change, alongside the appointment of Luca de Meo as Kering’s CEO, marks a pivotal moment for the brand as it seeks to regain its footing in a competitive market.

A Playful Yet Elegant Aesthetic

While the collection does not signal a complete departure from Gucci’s established identity, it introduces a youthful vibrancy and a sense of humor. The designs are imbued with a playful spirit, showcasing Demna’s ability to blend high fashion with accessibility. The collection features a range of archetypes, from elegant evening gowns to casual streetwear, reflecting the diverse lifestyles of modern consumers.

The film “The Tiger” serves as a narrative backdrop, featuring Moore as Barbara Gucci, a fictionalized version of the brand’s founder. The plot, while somewhat contrived, offers a humorous take on the fashion industry, complete with a dysfunctional family dynamic and a satirical portrayal of journalists. This self-referential humor adds an additional layer to the collection, inviting viewers to engage with the brand’s history in a contemporary context.

A Vision for the Future

Demna’s approach to Gucci is rooted in nostalgia, yet it is forward-looking. He aims to blend the brand’s rich heritage with modern storytelling techniques, creating a narrative that resonates with today’s consumers. “I thought La Famiglia would be a good way to return to Gucci’s storytelling, going back to the future by way of the past,” he explained.

As he prepares for a full collection and his first true runway show in February, Demna’s vision for Gucci is clear: to create a dialogue between the past and the present, ensuring that the brand remains relevant in an ever-evolving fashion landscape.

Conclusion

Demna’s debut at Gucci is more than just a fashion event; it is a cultural moment that encapsulates the intersection of art, storytelling, and luxury. As the fashion industry grapples with economic challenges, Demna’s innovative approach may well serve as a blueprint for revitalizing not just Gucci, but the broader luxury market. With a blend of nostalgia and modernity, Demna is poised to lead Gucci into a new era, one that honors its past while embracing the future.