Belgian Designers Reflect on National Identity and the Evolution of Fashion

In a recent conversation, renowned Belgian designers Raf Simons and Pieter Mulier delved into the complexities of their national identity and the evolution of fashion. The dialogue, which took place in early June, highlighted how Belgium’s unique cultural landscape has shaped their creative journeys and the broader fashion industry.

The Quiet Complexity of Belgium

When asked to define the national character of Belgium, Simons described it as “quiet,” a sentiment echoed by Mulier, who noted that this reserved nature stems from Belgium’s small size and its historical context. “We have a built-in inferiority complex towards the rest of the world,” Mulier explained, emphasizing how this perception influences the creative output of Belgian artists and designers.

Historically, Belgium has been a hub of artistic innovation, producing influential figures such as the Flemish masters and contemporary artists like Luc Tuymans. This rich artistic heritage has fostered a unique blend of creativity that is both introspective and globally resonant. The designers acknowledged that while Belgium may be small, it has “punched above its weight” in various fields, including fashion, art, and music.

The Dark Underbelly of Creativity

The conversation took a darker turn as the designers discussed the “dark energy” that permeates Belgian culture. Mulier attributed this to the country’s climate and its historical struggles, suggesting that the need to stand out in a crowded European landscape has led to a unique form of creative expression. “We have to be different because of our size,” he said, hinting at the complexities of navigating a national identity that is often overshadowed by larger neighbors like France and Germany.

Simons added that this darkness is not exclusive to Belgium, referencing notorious figures like Jack the Ripper in England. However, he acknowledged that Belgium has its share of grim narratives, which have influenced its artistic output. “The smallness makes us look a lot outside,” he noted, suggesting that the limitations of their environment have driven Belgian creatives to seek inspiration beyond their borders.

The Journey from Home to Global Recognition

Both designers reflected on their early aspirations and the allure of international cities like New York and Paris. Mulier admitted to dreaming of leaving Belgium for these cultural capitals, but as he matured, he found solace in returning to his roots. “The more I come back here, the happier I am,” he stated, highlighting a common theme among many creatives who initially seek to escape their origins only to find value in them later.

Simons echoed this sentiment, revealing that he once felt out of place but has since embraced his Belgian identity. “I love going back there a lot,” he said, emphasizing the comfort found in the “non-loudness” and “calm” of Belgium.

The Influence of Catholicism on Creativity

The designers also discussed the impact of their Catholic upbringing on their work ethic and creative philosophies. Both men attended strict educational institutions that emphasized discipline and hard work. Mulier described his experience in a boarding school as “hardcore,” while Simons recounted the pressure to conform to traditional career paths like law or medicine.

This background instilled in them a sense of ambition and a desire to break free from societal expectations. “There was a pressure to choose a profession, but my parents never imposed it,” Simons recalled. This freedom allowed them to explore their creative passions, ultimately leading them to become influential figures in the fashion world.

The Evolution of Belgian Fashion

The conversation shifted to the evolution of Belgian fashion, particularly the emergence of the Antwerp Six in the 1980s. This group of designers, including Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten, put Belgium on the global fashion map. Simons noted that this movement marked a turning point, as many began to embrace Belgian designers and their unique aesthetic.

Mulier pointed out that the Antwerp Six’s influence was not just about fashion but also about a cultural shift. “It was a hunger for something more intimate, more human,” he said, suggesting that this desire for authenticity resonated with audiences seeking alternatives to the glamour and spectacle often associated with high fashion.

The Role of Rebellion in Fashion

Both designers acknowledged that rebellion has been a driving force in their work. Simons described his early fascination with avant-garde fashion, which often challenged conventional norms. “I was always concerned to see things from outside,” he said, reflecting on how his exposure to international fashion scenes shaped his perspective.

Mulier added that this spirit of rebellion is still relevant today, as designers navigate the complexities of modern fashion. “We can propose real fashion without being worried about an economic backlash,” he stated, emphasizing the importance of creative freedom in a landscape dominated by commercial interests.

The Future of Fashion: Balancing Art and Commerce

As the conversation drew to a close, the designers contemplated the future of fashion in an increasingly commercialized world. They expressed concern that the pressure to generate profits often overshadows the creative process. “People don’t look at clothes anymore; they look at numbers,” Mulier lamented, highlighting the challenges faced by designers in maintaining their artistic integrity.

Simons echoed this sentiment, suggesting that true disruption in fashion would come from a collective movement towards independence. “What would really disrupt fashion is if every creative director in the world took themselves out of their position,” he mused, envisioning a future where creativity reigns supreme over commercial interests.

Conclusion

The conversation between Raf Simons and Pieter Mulier offers a profound insight into the complexities of Belgian identity and its impact on the fashion industry. Their reflections on national character, the influence of Catholicism, and the evolution of Belgian fashion reveal a rich tapestry of creativity that continues to inspire. As they navigate the challenges of modern fashion, their commitment to authenticity and artistic expression serves as a reminder of the importance of staying true to one’s roots while embracing the future.