New York Men’s Day (NYMD) has once again showcased a vibrant array of emerging fashion brands, setting the stage for innovation and creativity in menswear. This season, the event took place in a striking new venue, thanks to the partnership with Mercedes-Benz of Manhattan, which provided a spacious 300,000-square-foot showroom on 11th Avenue. The collaboration with Agentry PR, the event’s organizer, has elevated NYMD, allowing designers to present their collections in a modern and expansive environment.
The venue, sponsored by Project and Coterie, offered a fresh backdrop for the eight featured brands to unveil their spring lines during the opening day of New York Fashion Week. This year’s lineup included Archie, Clara Son, Peak Lapel, Oxblood Zebra, Bryan Jimenez, Max Esmail, Joseph McRae, and a collective of students from the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) under the MW25 banner.
While some brands leaned towards conceptual designs, the majority focused on commercially viable pieces. Notable highlights included expertly tailored clothing from Max Esmail, contemporary preppy styles from Peak Lapel, and modern workwear from Archie. Each brand brought a unique perspective to the runway, reflecting the diverse influences shaping today’s menswear landscape.
Spotlight on Emerging Brands
Here’s a closer look at the standout brands featured at this season’s NYMD:
Archie
Founded by designer Mark Smith Clarke and named after his grandfather, Archie began with a modest collection of three pieces: a button-down shirt, pants, and a mock neck. Over the past seven years, the brand has evolved into a broader range of workwear-inspired garments, characterized by a worn aesthetic and fabrics sourced from specialized Japanese mills. This commitment to quality and craftsmanship has positioned Archie as a notable player in the contemporary menswear scene.
Peak Lapel
The duo of Ben Stedman and Jack Milkes, who met at Parsons School of Design, launched Peak Lapel with a vision of modernizing “vintage prep.” Their collection features recognizable themes reimagined for today’s consumer. Key pieces include a cropped double-breasted suit with pockets and inverted pleats, a rowing blazer, and a classic white popover shirt made in Massachusetts. The brand emphasizes wearability, encouraging customers to engage with their clothing in everyday life.
Clara Son
South Korean-born designer Clara Son presented her collection titled “Reset,” inspired by the cyclical nature of repetitive thoughts. This conceptual line features details such as stripes and pleats, reflecting her introspective journey during a period of retreat. Drawing from the quiet elements of her surroundings, including curtains and muted textures, Son’s designs evoke a sense of intimacy and restraint. Her reinterpretation of Victorian men’s nightwear introduces a modern softness, exploring the delicate balance between safety and stagnation.
Oxblood Zebra
Reuben Shaw, the creative mind behind Oxblood Zebra, draws inspiration from his childhood fascination with zebras, a theme that resonates throughout his collection. Transitioning from bespoke tailoring to ready-to-wear, Shaw’s designs showcase a playful blend of tailoring and whimsical graphics referencing pop culture favorites like “Top Gun” and James Bond. This unique approach highlights his tailoring expertise while infusing a sense of humor into the collection.
Bryan Jimenez
FIT graduate Bryan Jimenez embraced the essence of summer in New York City for his spring collection, drawing inspiration from the vibrant music that fills the streets during warmer months. His “street elegant” line features oversized denim and plaid menswear, reflecting the influence of the rap stars he admired growing up. Jimenez’s designs aim to capture the spirit of urban life, merging comfort with style.
FIT MW25 Collective
The MW25 Collective, comprised of students from FIT, showcased a diverse range of individual styles under the mentorship of former Perry Ellis designer Michael Maccari. The collection featured innovative pieces, including a fur coat made from discarded animal skins and a horsehair leather jacket. Other standout items included a coat crafted from bonded textiles and a cummerbund that doubles as a tie, demonstrating the students’ creativity and technical skills.
Max Esmail
Max Esmail’s collection, while infused with humor, carries a serious undertone. He humorously remarked about the financial challenges of launching a line, likening it to a bank heist. His collection, inspired by the concept of a “criminal syndicate,” features finely crafted suits paired with Cupro overshirts and boxy jeans, blending elegance with an edge. Esmail’s designs reflect a modern sensibility, appealing to a new generation of fashion enthusiasts.
Conclusion
New York Men’s Day continues to be a vital platform for emerging designers, offering them the opportunity to showcase their creativity and commercial potential. The event not only highlights the diversity of menswear but also underscores the importance of innovation in the fashion industry. As these brands make their mark, they contribute to the evolving narrative of menswear, blending tradition with contemporary influences. With the support of established partners like Mercedes-Benz of Manhattan, NYMD is poised to remain a significant event in the fashion calendar, celebrating the future of menswear.
