Milan Fashion Week: A Multifaceted Celebration of Femininity

Published
September 26, 2025

Milan Fashion Week has once again proven to be a vibrant platform for creativity, showcasing a diverse array of womenswear collections that reflect the complexities of femininity. On the fourth day of the ready-to-wear shows, established brands and emerging designers alike presented their visions for Spring/Summer 2026, offering a rich tapestry of styles that ranged from minimalist chic to romantic gothic.

A Morning of Minimalism: Sportmax

Kicking off the day was Sportmax, whose collection epitomized a delicate balance between raw minimalism and soft elegance. The show opened with a palette of muted tones-powdery nudes and creams that transitioned into deep blacks. The elongated silhouettes, including baggy jeans that coiled around the ankles, were a nod to contemporary street style while maintaining a sense of sophistication.

The collection featured highly structured trench coats, sleeveless maxi coats, and double jackets crafted from crisp wools and supple leathers. Despite the strong lines, the overall impression was one of lightness, enhanced by airy fabrics like satin silk and organza. These materials were ingeniously layered, creating a sense of movement that was both fluid and dynamic.

To further emphasize this theme of motion, many garments were deconstructed or layered, reminiscent of historical fashion elements like the shoulder capes of yesteryear. Accessories played a crucial role, with gilt bells worn as earrings and necklaces adding a rhythmic chime that echoed the collection’s ethereal quality.

The Duality of Blumarine

Following Sportmax, Blumarine presented a collection that explored the duality of femininity through a wardrobe rich in contrasts. Creative director David Koma described his vision as an exploration of “Gothic romanticism transported into spring.” The collection juxtaposed fragility with strength, inviting the audience to interpret which aspect would prevail.

The garments featured a play of transparencies and a hyper-feminine aesthetic, with cascading chiffon ruffles and twirling ribbons adorning blouses and dresses. The use of black lace and guipure added a sultry touch, steering the collection toward a boudoir-inspired realm. Notably, the butterfly motif-an emblem of the Italian house-was intricately embroidered onto various pieces, symbolizing transformation and beauty.

Koma’s designs also included pagoda sleeves and long trains, evoking the delicate wings of butterflies and bats alike. This duality was a recurring theme, reflecting the multifaceted nature of the modern woman.

Emerging Talent: Institution by Galib Gassanoff

One of the standout presentations came from Galib Gassanoff, an Azeri-born Georgian designer who debuted his brand, Institution, to much acclaim. Following a successful first collection in February, Gassanoff continued to draw inspiration from his heritage, particularly the traditional braiding techniques of Azerbaijan. This season, he introduced commercial pieces that showcased his innovative approach to fashion.

Gassanoff’s designs featured sculptural dresses and tops made from reclaimed shoelaces, a sustainable nod to contemporary fashion’s growing emphasis on eco-friendliness. He also incorporated reedmace, a plant traditionally woven by women in Azerbaijan, into his collection, creating majestic gowns that celebrated craftsmanship and community.

His reinterpretation of the “chepken,” a traditional coat, into a tailored jacket demonstrated a modern twist on classic silhouettes. The jacket’s design, reminiscent of Christian Dior’s iconic Bar suit, featured long fabric panels that draped elegantly from the shoulders, allowing for freedom of movement.

A Rich Tapestry of Inspiration

The Milan Fashion Week showcases not only the latest trends but also the cultural narratives that inform them. Designers are increasingly looking to their roots, drawing on historical techniques and local craftsmanship to create pieces that resonate on a deeper level. Gassanoff’s use of traditional materials and methods is a prime example of how fashion can serve as a bridge between the past and the present.

Moreover, the emphasis on sustainability is becoming a defining characteristic of contemporary fashion. As designers like Gassanoff incorporate reclaimed materials into their collections, they are not only addressing environmental concerns but also redefining luxury in a way that values craftsmanship and heritage.

Conclusion

Milan Fashion Week continues to be a vital hub for innovation and expression in the fashion industry. The Spring/Summer 2026 collections from Sportmax, Blumarine, and Institution by Galib Gassanoff exemplify the diverse interpretations of femininity, showcasing a spectrum of styles that range from minimalist to romantic and everything in between. As the fashion world evolves, it remains clear that the narratives woven into each collection are as important as the garments themselves, reflecting the complexities of modern womanhood.