Lagerfeld’s Paris: Discover Torishéju & Olivia von Halle

Isabella Laurent
6 Min Read

Paris Fashion Week: A Celebration of Legacy and Innovation

Published
October 3, 2025

As the fashion world converges in Paris, the latest collections unveiled during Paris Fashion Week have captivated audiences with a blend of nostalgia and modernity. This season, designers have drawn inspiration from historical references, personal narratives, and cultural dialogues, creating a rich tapestry of styles that reflect both the past and the future.

Lagerfeld: A Tribute to La Vigie

At the heart of this season’s offerings is the Lagerfeld collection, which pays homage to the late designer Karl Lagerfeld‘s beloved villa, La Vigie. Nestled on the border of Monaco and France, La Vigie served as a sanctuary for Lagerfeld, where he found inspiration amidst its lush gardens and stunning views. Kun Kim, the current designer for the house, articulated this connection during a presentation at the brand’s headquarters in St. Germain, stating, “Karl lived there very happily for many years. La Vigie was not just a villa; it was a tropical garden filled with birds.”

The collection embodies the villa’s elegant and relaxed atmosphere, featuring a series of designs that evoke the Mediterranean spirit. Key pieces include cotton pajamas, silk shirts, and denim jackets adorned with a Monaco print, reminiscent of seaside sketches. The collection also showcases bold silhouettes, with an emphasis on power dressing that harkens back to the 1980s. Padded shoulders and darted white shirts reflect a confident aesthetic, while matte jersey cocktail dresses and silk pajama pants trimmed with a signature frieze add a touch of sophistication.

A standout accessory is a new bag featuring a silver metallic handle shaped like Choupette, Lagerfeld’s beloved cat. This playful nod to the designer’s personal life reinforces the collection’s theme of homage. Kun Kim encapsulated the essence of the collection by stating, “This season feels like an homage to Karl,” further celebrated by a vibrant party at the Palais de Tokyo, featuring DJ Paris Hilton, who is also the face of the brand’s latest campaign.

Torishéju: A Dialogue with Dürer

In a striking contrast, Torishéju’s collection, led by designer Dumi, has garnered attention for its intellectual depth and artistic references. Recently awarded the LVMH Savoir-Faire Prize, Dumi’s designs blend military, industrial, and utilitarian influences into a cohesive narrative. The collection opened with a striking black wool jacket worn by supermodel Naomi Campbell, featuring a peplum that evokes the armor of a chevalier.

Dumi’s collection is characterized by its thoughtful exploration of themes, particularly the intersection of chaos and control, as well as the body and the system. Drawing inspiration from the works of Albrecht Dürer, Dumi stated, “Just as Dürer once explored the tensions between the divine and the earthly, this collection turns its gaze toward the intersections of chaos and control.” This intellectual approach sets Torishéju apart, showcasing a designer who is not only skilled in craftsmanship but also deeply engaged with cultural dialogues.

The collection features a range of innovative designs, including ribbed wool jerseys paired with asymmetrical skirts, and streaked wool dresses with frayed hems. Each piece is imbued with an artistic sensibility, making them both wearable and thought-provoking. Dumi’s background, with roots in Nigeria and Brazil and education at prestigious institutions like the London College of Fashion and Central Saint Martins, adds a unique perspective to her work, positioning her as a designer with significant staying power.

Olivia von Halle: Luxury Meets Lifestyle

Another highlight of Paris Fashion Week is Olivia von Halle’s collaboration with Hôtel Costes, a partnership that merges luxury loungewear with the chic ambiance of one of Paris’s most iconic hotels. The collection, titled “Lila Liaisons,” features a revamped version of von Halle’s bestselling pajama silhouette, complemented by accessories like the Deneuve Liaisons headscarf and the Audrey Costes eye mask.

Crafted from exquisite silk dévoré, the collection showcases a burnout pattern that reflects the spirit of Hôtel Costes. The designs are imbued with a sense of playfulness and sophistication, capturing the essence of the hotel’s vibrant atmosphere. “I’ve always loved the idea of turning a mood, a place, a feeling into a pajama. And at Costes, our pieces feel perfectly at home,” von Halle remarked, highlighting the seamless integration of her designs into the lifestyle of the hotel.

This collaboration marks von Halle’s second partnership with a major hotel, following her successful line for The Carlyle in New York. The Costes collection is a testament to the growing trend of co-branding in the fashion industry, where luxury brands align with lifestyle establishments to create unique offerings that resonate with consumers.

Conclusion

As Paris Fashion Week unfolds, it becomes evident that the collections presented are not merely about clothing; they are narratives woven from personal histories, cultural dialogues, and artistic inspirations. From Lagerfeld’s homage to La Vigie to Torishéju’s intellectual exploration of chaos and control, and Olivia von Halle’s luxurious loungewear, each designer contributes to a vibrant conversation that defines contemporary fashion. This season, Paris stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of its fashion icons while embracing the innovative spirit of emerging talents.

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Isabella Laurent is a fashion editor focusing on global fashion weeks, couture, and sustainable style. She blends luxury trendspotting with a passion for ethical fashion.
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