London Fashion Week: A Celebration of Couture and Creativity

Published
September 21, 2025

In a whirlwind 24 hours at London Fashion Week, the spotlight shone brightly on two distinguished couture houses, Patrick McDowell and Roksanda, alongside innovative jewelry showcases and a unique Berlin-inspired rave. This year’s event not only highlighted the artistry of fashion but also underscored the evolving narrative of sustainability and cultural homage within the industry.

Patrick McDowell: A Tribute to Heritage

Patrick McDowell, a name that has steadily gained recognition in the fashion world, presented his latest collection titled “Lancashire Rose” on Saturday morning. Known for his meticulous craftsmanship, McDowell’s work is a testament to the rich heritage of British couture. His collection drew inspiration from his late grandmother, a woman born in 1923, whose life spanned significant historical events, including the independence of Ireland. Each piece in the collection was imbued with personal significance, reflecting a deep reverence for family and tradition.

The collection featured a striking array of designs, prominently showcasing rose motifs. From sleeveless jackets adorned with blurred red rose prints to sculpted bustiers and mid-calf dresses draped in gauze, McDowell’s artistry was evident. A standout piece was a perfectly tailored coat dress embellished with crystal buttons, exemplifying his commitment to refined elegance.

McDowell’s technical prowess was on full display with an early black satin column dress, intricately embroidered with a fabric rose whose stem elegantly traced from shoulder to ankle. His playful approach to design was evident in a deconstructed trench coat, reimagined as a corset adorned with fabric flowers. Adding a touch of humor, several black corsets and gowns were finished with dangling silver hem thimbles, showcasing McDowell’s ability to blend sophistication with whimsy.

In a nod to modernity, each garment was equipped with a Digital Product Passport (DPP) from Certilogo, allowing attendees to scan and learn about the garment’s provenance, materials, and sustainability efforts. This integration of technology into couture reflects a growing trend in the fashion industry, where transparency and sustainability are becoming paramount.

The show was staged in the Control Room A of Battersea Power Station, accompanied by a haunting soundtrack that intertwined McDowell’s grandmother’s voice with lush orchestral arrangements by Erland Cooper and the Scottish Ensemble. This setting transformed the runway into a poignant tribute, encapsulating the essence of a “love letter” to his grandmother. McDowell articulated this sentiment beautifully, stating, “This collection is about the life of my grandmother, a life that spanned ten decades, eight children, a world war, and me.”

Roksanda: Sculptural Elegance

Following McDowell’s heartfelt presentation, Roksanda showcased her latest collection, which many critics hailed as the most accomplished of the season. Known for her innovative use of volume and silhouette, Roksanda’s designs were a feast for the eyes. The collection featured voluptuous trench coats that swirled around the body and stunning silk cocoon dresses adorned with abstract patterns.

This season, Roksanda introduced a daring edge, incorporating cut-out body-con tops paired with billowing satin harem pants. One standout ensemble was a pale concrete wool suit, complete with a wide-lapel jacket, which garnered praise as one of the best suits seen on any runway this season.

Inspired by the works of sculptor Barbara Hepworth, Roksanda’s collection emphasized folding, slashing, and reducing fabric to create striking silhouettes. The show took place in The Chancery Rosewood, a beautifully restored former American embassy, where Roksanda received an intense three minutes of applause-a testament to her mastery and the audience’s appreciation.

Completedworks: Performance Art Meets Jewelry

In a departure from traditional fashion presentations, Completedworks transformed the runway into a performance art piece featuring Jerry Hall. Dressed in a striking teal blue suit, Hall played the role of a mock TV presenter, engaging the audience with her quirky charm. The performance was both entertaining and thought-provoking, as Hall humorously advised viewers on the significance of colors in the coming months.

As the show progressed, Hall unveiled Completedworks’ latest jewelry designs, which included sleek silver bracelets and hyper-polished leather bags with silver barbed wire handles. The presentation culminated in an emotional moment when guests shared heirlooms, highlighting the personal connections that jewelry can evoke.

The Ouze: A Theatrical Jewelry Showcase

Another highlight of the day was The Ouze, which presented its creations through a series of theatrical tableaux. The mise en scène was meticulously crafted, featuring an open fridge displaying a battered chain bracelet and a gold ring around a leek, alongside chic napkin rings and silver cutlery, evoking the aftermath of a lavish dinner party. This innovative approach to showcasing jewelry not only captivated the audience but also emphasized the brand’s artistic vision.

Lueder: A Berlin-Inspired Rave

Closing the day was Lueder, a London-based brand founded by Berlin-raised designer Marie Lueder. The show was a fusion of the industrial aesthetic of Berlin and the bohemian spirit of London. The runway was ingeniously set up as a banquet table, where models walked in casual yet stylish attire, leaving black footprints on the pristine white linen tablecloth.

Lueder’s collection featured a mix of eras, combining medieval cowls with Tudor shorts and vertically ribbed NATO maneuver sweaters. The show also marked a collaboration with Pull & Bear, showcasing the designer’s ability to bridge high fashion with streetwear.

Conclusion

London Fashion Week continues to be a platform for creativity, innovation, and cultural expression. The presentations by Patrick McDowell and Roksanda, along with the unique performances by Completedworks and The Ouze, reflect a vibrant fashion landscape that honors tradition while embracing modernity. As the industry evolves, the integration of technology and sustainability into couture is becoming increasingly vital, paving the way for a more conscious future in fashion. The excitement and energy of this year’s event leave attendees eagerly anticipating what the next wave of designers will bring to the runway.