Emerging Designers Shine at Paris Fashion Week: A Look at Courrèges and Dries Van Noten

Published
October 1, 2025

Paris Fashion Week continues to be a pivotal platform for both established and emerging designers, showcasing innovative collections that pay homage to the rich history of fashion. This season, two young yet seasoned designers, Nicolas Di Felice of Courrèges and Julien Klausner of Dries Van Noten, have captivated audiences with their unique interpretations of classic styles, drawing from their shared educational background at La Cambre in Brussels.

Courrèges: A Dazzling Display of Modernity

Nicolas Di Felice has emerged as a standout figure in contemporary fashion, particularly noted for his ability to self-edit and refine his vision. His latest collection for Courrèges, presented in a strikingly bright white set, exemplified this talent. The show took place in a historic 19th-century wrought iron market, transformed into a circular space adorned with bold, overhead lighting reminiscent of a high-stakes game show. Each invitation included a pair of sleek black sunglasses, a playful nod to the overwhelming brightness of the setting.

Di Felice explained his inspiration, stating, “I was thinking of being blinded by the sun in the sense of what is true and what is fake. Too much information. It’s all a bit overwhelming.” This theme resonated throughout the collection, which began with icy blue silhouettes and veiled models, gradually transitioning to more relaxed designs crafted from natural fabrics and sleek leathers. The juxtaposition of strict lines with comfortable materials reflected a modern sensibility that honors the legacy of André Courrèges, the brand’s founder known for his revolutionary contributions to fashion in the 1960s.

A Nod to the Past with a Vision for the Future

Di Felice’s collection ingeniously incorporated elements of Courrèges’ DNA, such as the iconic miniature belts, reimagined into playful cocktails of tiny straps. Footwear options ranged from flat shoes to glove-like sling-backs and transparent boots, all exuding a sense of zest and vitality. The soundtrack, a blend of galactic funk co-composed by Di Felice and Erwan Sene, added an immersive layer to the experience, punctuated by a sultry French voice announcing the temperature.

The collection concluded with futuristic dresses inspired by automotive designs, a fitting tribute to the futurism that Courrèges pioneered. Di Felice’s ability to infuse optimism into his work has made Courrèges one of the most talked-about brands in the Kering luxury empire, attracting a fervent following and transforming its runway into a must-see event.

Dries Van Noten: A Celebration of Tailoring and Color

In contrast to Di Felice’s bold approach, Julien Klausner’s latest collection for Dries Van Noten offered a more subdued yet equally captivating experience. The show, held in a minimalist art space at the Palais de Tokyo, featured 400 Louis XVI chairs, allowing the audience to focus entirely on the garments. Klausner, a former staff member at Maison Margiela, presented a collection that blended street style with rich fabrics and feminine touches, embodying the essence of Dries Van Noten.

Echoes of Scandinavian Design

Klausner’s designs drew inspiration from the vibrant prints of Verner Panton and the iconic colors of Marimekko, evoking a sense of nostalgia while remaining fresh. The collection featured light, airy colors such as lime, lichen, pale gray, and canary yellow, all exuding charm and optimism. Klausner described his vision as “joyful, optimistic… like the ’60s was,” reflecting a desire to capture the spirit of a bygone era while appealing to contemporary sensibilities.

The collection also showcased Klausner’s respect for Dries Van Noten’s rich tailoring history. He crafted nobleman’s coats with soaring collars and angled pockets, utilizing prints inspired by broken disks and tropical leaves. While some elements felt familiar, the execution remained polished and competent, ensuring that the brand’s legacy is in capable hands.

A Comparative Analysis: Two Distinct Approaches

Both Di Felice and Klausner have successfully navigated the delicate balance between honoring their predecessors and pushing the boundaries of modern fashion. Di Felice’s work at Courrèges is characterized by a bold, avant-garde approach that embraces the future, while Klausner’s collection for Dries Van Noten reflects a more traditional yet innovative take on tailoring and color.

The contrasting styles of these two designers highlight the diverse landscape of contemporary fashion, where innovation and tradition coexist. As the industry continues to evolve, the contributions of these young talents serve as a reminder of the importance of both heritage and modernity in shaping the future of fashion.

Conclusion

As Paris Fashion Week unfolds, the collections presented by Nicolas Di Felice and Julien Klausner exemplify the dynamic nature of the fashion industry. Their ability to draw from historical influences while infusing their unique perspectives ensures that both Courrèges and Dries Van Noten remain relevant in an ever-changing landscape. With their innovative designs and fresh interpretations, these designers are not only honoring the past but also paving the way for the future of fashion.