Paris Fashion Week: A Dazzling Display of Innovation and Tradition

Published
October 5, 2025

As the rain poured down and traffic snarled across the City of Light, Paris Fashion Week showcased a remarkable array of creativity and craftsmanship on Saturday. The event featured four standout shows from renowned fashion houses: Alaïa, Maison Margiela, Hermès, and Vivienne Westwood. Each presentation offered a unique perspective on contemporary fashion, blending historical references with modern aesthetics.

Alaïa: A Celebration of Feminine Empowerment

Creative director Pieter Mulier took the stage at the Foundation Cartier, a venue known for its architectural elegance, to present his latest collection for Alaïa. The show was a visual feast, with the floor transformed into a canvas of LED panels displaying striking images of feminine beauty. Mulier described his vision as creating a “cocoon of imagery,” and the execution was nothing short of breathtaking.

The collection riffed on Alaïa’s legacy of sexy empowerment, featuring sleek cocktail dresses crafted from technical fibers, silk, and ribbed knits. Mulier’s designs included transparent breastplates and diagonal fringes, showcasing his skill in draping and tailoring. The standout pieces, such as a black leather perfecto that morphed into a grand gown, evoked the spirit of the late Azzedine Alaïa, the house’s founder.

Mulier’s approach was both daring and thoughtful, with some pieces pushing the boundaries of traditional design. While certain elements, like dresses that tied around the ankle, may have felt overly conceptual, the overall collection was a testament to the evolving narrative of women’s fashion. This show not only highlighted Mulier’s talent but also reinforced Richemont’s fashion division as a burgeoning center of excellence.

Maison Margiela: A Provocative Commentary

Glenn Martens made a bold statement during his ready-to-wear debut for Maison Margiela, employing masks and braces to create a striking visual metaphor. The models, with their mouths forcibly kept open, evoked unsettling imagery reminiscent of “Silence of the Lambs.” This choice, while provocative, raised questions about the boundaries of fashion as a form of expression, especially in a climate where free speech is under scrutiny.

The show featured a live children’s orchestra, adding a layer of irony to the unsettling visuals. The juxtaposition of dissonant music with the haunting imagery created a complex atmosphere that both challenged and engaged the audience. Martens’ collection itself was a triumph, showcasing innovative tailoring and a fresh take on classic silhouettes. The use of 16th-century floral prints in punchy dresses added a vibrant touch, demonstrating Martens’ ability to blend historical references with contemporary flair.

Hermès: Equestrian Elegance

Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s collection for Hermès remained firmly rooted in the brand’s equestrian heritage. The show, held at the Garde Républicaine riding center, featured designs that celebrated the horse as Hermès’ “first client.” The collection was characterized by luxurious materials, including matelassé and quilted leather, often inspired by horse blankets.

Vanhee-Cybulski’s designs were strikingly body-conscious, with waxed leather sheaths and riding boots that accentuated the models’ silhouettes. The collection also included boleros and urban jackets adorned with equestrian motifs, such as silver clasps and leather reins. While the designs were undeniably chic, some critics noted that the collection occasionally veered into overly literal interpretations of equestrian themes.

Despite this, Vanhee-Cybulski’s talent shone through, and her ability to merge tradition with modernity was evident in every piece. The show served as a reminder of Hermès’ commitment to craftsmanship and its enduring legacy in the fashion world.

Vivienne Westwood: Boudoir Chic

Vivienne Westwood’s legacy continues to thrive under the guidance of her former husband, Andreas Kronthaler. The “Boudoir” collection, presented at the prestigious Institut de France, was a celebration of sensuality and elegance. The venue, a symbol of French intellectualism, provided a fitting backdrop for a collection that blended lingerie-inspired designs with historical references.

Kronthaler’s use of rich Italian jacquards and damasks created a vibrant tapestry of color and texture. The collection featured a mix of gowns and co-ed looks, with men strutting in micro shorts and women donning sleek silk suits. The finale was particularly memorable, with supermodel Heidi Klum making a striking appearance in a crystal-encrusted ensemble that paid homage to Westwood’s iconic style.

The applause that erupted as Kronthaler took his bow underscored the enduring appeal of Westwood’s vision. The collection not only honored the brand’s heritage but also pushed the boundaries of contemporary fashion, making a bold statement about gender and identity.

Conclusion

Paris Fashion Week continues to be a platform for innovation and creativity, showcasing the diverse talents of designers who are unafraid to challenge conventions. From Alaïa’s celebration of feminine empowerment to Maison Margiela’s provocative commentary, each show offered a unique lens through which to view the evolving landscape of fashion. As the industry grapples with issues of identity, expression, and heritage, these collections serve as a reminder of the power of fashion to inspire and provoke thought.