Jil Sander’s New Era: Simone Bellotti‘s Vision for Spring 2026
MILAN – The world of high fashion is often a delicate balance between innovation and tradition, a challenge that Simone Bellotti faced head-on when he took the helm at Jil Sander. Known for its minimalist aesthetic and refined elegance, the brand has long been synonymous with a philosophy of subtraction-removing excess to reveal the essence of style. Bellotti, however, found himself grappling with the question: how does one add to a legacy built on the principle of taking away?
A New Chapter for Jil Sander
Bellotti’s previous role at Bally allowed him to carve out a unique identity, but stepping into Jil Sander’s storied history presented a different set of challenges. “People have their own vision about this brand,” he remarked during a preview of his Spring 2026 collection. “It’s so strong; I think it expresses a feeling they connect with.” This acknowledgment of the brand’s deep-rooted identity underscores the weight of expectations that accompany such a prestigious label.
Despite these challenges, Bellotti’s debut collection showcased a remarkable reinterpretation of Jil Sander’s original vision. The show, held in a pristine space illuminated by natural light, evoked a sense of purity and sophistication that resonated with the brand’s ethos. “It’s an approach which is less visible, especially on our devices today,” he explained. “But I think it’s a plus to have the chance to do this today, because it means that whoever’s going to come to experience the collection will feel it’s a privilege to go deeper into these clothes.”
The Experience of Fashion
The concept of “experience” emerged as a central theme in Bellotti’s collection. He emphasized the importance of tactile engagement, suggesting that the true essence of the garments could only be appreciated in person. This notion aligns with a broader trend in fashion, where the sensory experience of clothing is becoming increasingly vital in a digital age dominated by images.
Bellotti’s vision extends beyond mere aesthetics; he aims to capture the multifaceted nature of identity. “I’ve always said that I see a brand like a person,” he stated. “One day, you are serious and focused. The day after, you’re bored and you feel you need to escape.” This exploration of contradictions reflects a deeper understanding of human nature, suggesting that fashion can serve as a canvas for expressing the complexities of individual identity.
A Dialogue with History
One of the most striking elements of Bellotti’s collection was its dialogue with the past. He drew inspiration from the architectural landscape surrounding the Jil Sander office, particularly the imposing Castello that looms nearby. “I started to think about the relation between the two entities, Jil Sander and the Castello,” he recalled. This interplay between the brand’s refined tailoring and the castle’s austere presence created a narrative that celebrated both strength and vulnerability.
The collection itself embodied this duality. Bellotti’s designs featured cropped tops, slashed skirts, and deep armholes, all of which suggested a sense of liberation while maintaining an air of sophistication. “I was talking about removing fabric from the clothing to create space, to give the body the freedom to come out,” he explained. This approach not only honors Jil Sander’s legacy but also introduces a fresh perspective that resonates with contemporary sensibilities.
The Essence of Fabric
At the heart of Jil Sander’s identity lies its commitment to exceptional fabrics. Bellotti’s collection showcased summer-weight crepe wools, ethereal Japanese polyester, and buttery leathers, all of which highlighted the brand’s dedication to quality. “I was inspired by the pages of a book of embroideries,” he noted, emphasizing the importance of texture and layering in his designs.
Interestingly, Bellotti admitted that he did not spend much time in the brand’s archives, which he described as lacking. Instead, he focused on engaging with long-standing team members to glean insights from their experiences. “It was very interesting to talk to people who’ve been here for 20 years or more,” he said. This collaborative approach not only honors the brand’s history but also fosters a sense of continuity as Bellotti charts a new course.
The Soundtrack of Fashion
The show was not just a visual spectacle; it was also an auditory experience. The music, composed by Bochum Welt, a collaborator from Bellotti’s past, added another layer to the presentation. “I didn’t want to even show clothes,” he explained. “It was for me the possibility to create content that made sense.” This emphasis on sound and atmosphere reflects a growing recognition of the role that sensory elements play in shaping the fashion experience.
Bellotti’s choice to film a video project in Hamburg, a city rich in duality, further underscores his commitment to exploring the complexities of identity. “You have this very rich, bourgeois, neoclassic, super elegant vibe, but at the same time, there is this dark side,” he observed. This nuanced understanding of place and identity is a hallmark of Bellotti’s approach, allowing him to weave a rich narrative into his designs.
The Legacy of Jil Sander
As Bellotti navigates the intricate landscape of Jil Sander, he is acutely aware of the brand’s legacy. “The reputation of the brand is actually bigger than the brand,” he noted, acknowledging the high standards set by previous designers. This respect for the brand’s history is evident in his work, as he strives to maintain the level of excellence that has defined Jil Sander for decades.
In conclusion, Simone Bellotti’s debut collection for Jil Sander marks a significant moment in the brand’s evolution. By embracing the complexities of identity, engaging with the past, and prioritizing sensory experiences, Bellotti is poised to redefine what it means to wear Jil Sander in the modern age. As he continues to explore the delicate balance between innovation and tradition, the fashion world eagerly anticipates what lies ahead for this iconic label.
