Europe’s Fashion Industry Tackles Textile Waste with Ambitious Recycling Roadmap

The European fashion industry is grappling with a significant challenge: the management of an ever-increasing volume of textile waste. As the region faces mounting piles of discarded clothing, new regulations are poised to impose financial responsibilities on major brands for the cleanup of this waste. However, the necessary infrastructure to support large-scale recycling efforts is still in its infancy, leaving the industry in search of viable solutions.

The Emergence of Rehubs

In response to this pressing issue, the coalition known as Rehubs has unveiled a comprehensive roadmap aimed at industrializing textile-to-textile recycling across Europe. This initiative, which has been in development for several months, is informed by over 100 interviews with experts in circularity and industry stakeholders. Notable supporters of this initiative include major players such as Inditex, the parent company of Zara, sporting retail giant Decathlon, and the climate-focused Apparel Impact Institute.

The coalition’s ambitious plan seeks to unlock between €5 to €6 billion (approximately $6 to $7.5 billion) in investments, which Rehubs estimates will be essential to recycle 2.5 million tonnes of textile waste by 2032. While this target is commendable, it still represents only about one-third of the total capacity needed to manage the annual disposal of clothing, footwear, and fabrics in Europe. The initial goal of achieving this target by 2030 has already been postponed, reflecting the complexities and systemic barriers that have become apparent.

Addressing Systemic Challenges

Despite the coalition’s well-structured strategy, uncertainties loom large. The specifics of upcoming regulations, access to public funding, and the timeline for establishing industrial recycling facilities remain unclear. Robert van de Kerkhof, CEO of Rehubs, candidly acknowledged the challenges, stating, “We still do not have the full picture, and we’re still driving in the dark and have no headlights.” He emphasized the need for systemic change and coordination among stakeholders to ensure everyone is aligned.

A Two-Pronged Approach

Rehubs has outlined a two-pronged strategy to tackle the recycling challenge. The first step involves centralizing the recycling process, which is currently fragmented across various sectors. The coalition aims to integrate collection, sorting, processing, and manufacturing to create a more efficient market for recycled textiles. This integration is crucial for scaling up recycling efforts.

To facilitate this, Rehubs has initiated an 18-month project to map existing infrastructure across Europe, gather data, and secure commitments from brands to support supply chain development. The goal is to establish a robust market for recycled textiles once production begins.

In collaboration with over 40 organizations, including the Global Fashion Agenda and Fashion For Good, Rehubs plans to develop strong data systems and knowledge-sharing platforms. This collaborative effort will also focus on working with regulators to create harmonized recycling rules and shared standards for recycled materials.

Funding the Future

The second component of Rehubs’ strategy is securing the necessary funding. The coalition estimates that €5 to €6 billion will be required over the next seven years to scale infrastructure and mitigate risks associated with recycling technologies. Van de Kerkhof noted that discussions are already underway with the European Investment Bank, the International Financial Corporation, and various private financial institutions to secure funding for projects and develop financial vehicles for partners.

The coalition aims for a balanced mix of public and private investment, targeting a 50/50 split. Van de Kerkhof stated, “We don’t know exactly how much money will be needed where, but the aim is to have investment across the value chain instead of in just one part of it.”

The Current Landscape of Textile Recycling

Rehubs’ roadmap arrives at a critical juncture for Europe’s recycling industry. The sector is currently under strain from the increasing volumes of low-value, polyester-heavy fast fashion, geopolitical uncertainties affecting key export markets, and a challenging environment for recycling startups. Many of these startups have struggled to scale their operations effectively.

However, there is a silver lining. Recent years have seen innovative solutions emerge to address the growing textile waste crisis. Several recycling startups are advancing their industrialization plans, and mechanical recycling capacity in Europe has doubled since 2020, although many facilities remain underutilized. This presents a significant opportunity for scaling up recycling efforts.

Rehubs aims to break what it describes as a “systemic supply-demand deadlock,” where brands lack access to competitively priced recycled fibers, and recyclers hesitate to invest in expansion without guaranteed demand. Van de Kerkhof emphasized the importance of encouraging industry stakeholders to take proactive steps, stating, “We’ll be here, we’ll be knocking on all the people’s doors and ensuring investors are taking certain risks… But ultimately, momentum for change will have to come from the industry itself.”

Conclusion

As Europe’s fashion industry confronts the pressing issue of textile waste, the Rehubs coalition is taking significant strides toward a more sustainable future. With a well-defined roadmap that emphasizes collaboration, funding, and systemic change, the coalition aims to transform the recycling landscape in Europe. While challenges remain, the commitment from major industry players and the innovative spirit of startups provide a glimmer of hope for a more circular economy in fashion. The success of this initiative could set a precedent for other regions grappling with similar waste management issues, ultimately contributing to a more sustainable global fashion industry.