Paris Fashion Week: A New Wave of Creativity from Emerging Designers

Published
September 30, 2025

As Paris Fashion Week unfolds, the spotlight is increasingly shining on emerging labels that are redefining the landscape of women’s ready-to-wear fashion. The second day of the Spring-Summer 2026 shows was particularly vibrant, showcasing collections that infused the event with fresh energy and innovative designs. Notably, the presentations from Zomer and Matières Fécales captivated both press and buyers, marking a significant moment in the fashion calendar.

Matières Fécales: A Bold Statement

Matières Fécales made a striking debut in the Paris fashion scene, presenting a collection that blended couture tailoring with a techno-gothic aesthetic. The show featured models adorned in dramatic outfits that seemed to emerge from a fantastical realm, characterized by inclusive casting and a strong visual narrative. The models, elevated on towering platform stilettos, were styled to resemble porcelain dolls, their expressions often obscured by half-masks, adding an air of mystery to the presentation.

The brand’s founders, Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran, have a compelling backstory that adds depth to their creative vision. Originally from Canada, the duo honed their skills in New York as DJs before transitioning into fashion. Their journey took a pivotal turn in Paris, where they gained recognition under the mentorship of established figures like Rick Owens and Adrian Joffe. Their unique blend of influences has attracted the attention of icons such as Lady Gaga and Madonna, further solidifying their status in the industry.

Subverting Couture Norms

Dalton and Bhaskaran’s collection masterfully subverted traditional couture codes without resorting to mere shock value. A standout piece was a pale pink tweed suit reminiscent of Chanel, featuring an off-the-shoulder design with artfully frayed edges. The silhouettes ranged from elongated and sleek to sculptural, emphasizing pronounced shoulders and rounded hips. Corsetry played a central role, accentuating feminine curves, while chic accessories like hats and opera gloves added a touch of sophistication.

The collection also showcased impeccably tailored pieces, including masculine-inspired suits, satin ensembles, and 1940s-style skirt suits. Sensual jumpsuits and hybrid trench-robe designs revealed suspender stockings, while crinolines adorned with roses closed the show, leaving a lasting impression.

In a nod to streetwear, the collection included faded jeans with intentional rips, tracksuit tops emblazoned with the phrase “Never conform,” and a black T-shirt featuring a wilted rose and the slogan “La vie en rose.” The infusion of BDSM elements through black leather pieces added an edgy twist, further diversifying the collection.

Zomer: Playfulness Meets Innovation

Zomer’s presentation was equally captivating, featuring a whimsical artist’s palette at the center of the stage. Models left colorful footprints on the white catwalk, embodying the brand’s ethos of joy and lightness. Designers Tatar Danial Aitouganov and Imruh Asha faced the challenge of balancing exaggeration with restraint, resulting in a collection that seamlessly blended neutral basics with vibrant, multi-colored pieces.

Clever Design Elements

The collection was marked by clever design twists, such as ties resembling bow ties perched on shrunken blouson jackets and oversized belt buckles cinching the waists of draped dresses. The designers played with proportions, dropping waistlines to thigh level and allowing skirts and Bermuda shorts to appear as if they had slipped down, revealing contrasting undergarments.

Layering was a key theme, with a short denim skirt inset into a sequined petticoat and a crocodile-effect A-line skirt layered over a white poplin summer dress. The collection also featured variations on the umbrella shape, with long dresses and handkerchief-hem skirts unfurling into pointed drapes, creating a sense of movement and volume.

The Significance of Emerging Designers

The emergence of brands like Matières Fécales and Zomer at Paris Fashion Week underscores a broader trend in the fashion industry: the rise of young, innovative designers who are unafraid to challenge conventions. This shift is reminiscent of past fashion revolutions, where new voices have historically reshaped the industry.

The current landscape is marked by a growing emphasis on inclusivity, sustainability, and individuality. As consumers increasingly seek authenticity and personal expression in their fashion choices, these emerging designers are well-positioned to meet that demand. Their ability to blend artistic vision with commercial viability is crucial in an industry that often prioritizes established names.

Conclusion

As Paris Fashion Week continues, the contributions of emerging designers like Matières Fécales and Zomer are revitalizing the fashion narrative. Their bold statements and innovative designs not only captivate audiences but also pave the way for a more inclusive and diverse future in fashion. The creative energy displayed in these collections serves as a reminder that the industry is ever-evolving, and the voices of young designers are essential in shaping its trajectory. As the week progresses, it will be exciting to see how these fresh perspectives continue to influence the broader fashion landscape.