Published
September 12, 2025
The Calvin Klein fashion house recently unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection in a striking venue: the Brant Foundation in New York’s East Village. This area, historically significant as the birthplace of punk rock, now serves as a backdrop for a new era of minimalist design under the creative direction of Veronica Leoni. The choice of location not only reflects the brand’s storied past but also its evolution in the contemporary fashion landscape.
Leoni’s debut collection for Calvin Klein draws inspiration from the daily lives of New Yorkers, particularly their morning commutes. This focus on workwear and utilitarian aesthetics resonates with the ambitious spirit of the city’s women. The collection features innovative designs, such as aprons that transform into stylish cocktail dresses, showcasing a blend of practicality and high fashion.
The show opened with a striking juxtaposition of voluminous coats, including a slate-hued boiled chiffon great coat and a double-breasted jacket worn over satin shorts. One standout piece was an oversized sand-hued trench coat that draped elegantly off the shoulders. Leoni, who hails from Rome, expressed her desire to connect deeply with the brand’s heritage while infusing her unique vision into the collection.
“This past year, I wanted to get close to the brand, close to its DNA and traditions, and to own it in my own way,” Leoni stated after the show, emphasizing her commitment to honoring Calvin Klein’s legacy while pushing boundaries.
The atmosphere of the show was enhanced by a captivating soundtrack curated by Kid Harpoon, featuring snippets of Caetano Veloso’s iconic song “Cucurrucucu Paloma.” This musical backdrop complemented Leoni’s bold and theatrical designs, which included a dove grey plissé gown cinched with a leather string belt and a dramatic battleship grey lambskin trench coat.
The collection also featured playful elements, such as dressing gowns adorned with bold stripes and models clutching keys attached to leather lariats. Leoni described her approach as “magnifying normality but bringing it to its next level,” aiming to capture the raw beauty of street style in New York. Her fondness for the television series “Dynasty” also influenced several power looks, contributing to a transatlantic aesthetic that blends American and European influences.
The models made their entrance down an industrial staircase, showcasing the collection within the context of the Brant Foundation, a former Con Edison substation that has been transformed into an art space. This setting, once the studio of renowned land artist Walter De Maria, added an additional layer of artistic significance to the event.
The show was rich with insider references, including a soundtrack that featured a line about Calvin Klein from the film “Back to the Future.” The collection also playfully incorporated elements of Calvin Klein’s most recognizable signature: underwear. This was evident in designs that combined floral Victorian bloomers with matching vests, as well as sports bras peeking out from beneath crepe tops.
The collection also included innovative pieces like logo long johns and sporty visors trimmed with underwear fabric. A standout was a tweed column dress crafted from elasticated yarn, showcasing Leoni’s ability to blend comfort with high fashion. Many models sported worker-inspired scarves reminiscent of post-war Italian field workers, adding a layer of historical context to the modern designs.
For the men’s segment, the collection featured a slate grey denim suit paired with a hunting jacket, as well as a striking crushed linen coat worn over long johns. The playful incorporation of cheerleader pompons attached to lingerie dresses added a humorous twist, showcasing Leoni’s creative flair.
Overall, Leoni’s second collection for Calvin Klein was met with enthusiastic applause from an audience that included notable figures such as Lily Collins, Iris Law, Emily Ratajkowski, Naomi Watts, and singer Rosalía. The show not only highlighted Leoni’s innovative vision but also reaffirmed Calvin Klein’s enduring relevance in the ever-evolving world of fashion.
