Nomasei Returns to New York: A Strategic Pop-Up and Future Growth Plans
PARIS – The Parisian footwear brand Nomasei is making a notable return to New York City, a year after its successful debut in the bustling metropolis. This week-long pop-up, located at 251 Elizabeth Street in NoLIta, marks a significant step in the brand’s direct-to-consumer strategy as it prepares for its first funding round.
A Unique Shopping Experience
The pop-up spans 450 square feet and features 14 of Nomasei’s 29 shoe models. Customers can also participate in exclusive customization workshops for the brand’s popular Nono loafer and Sonics derbies. In a creative twist, the event will include dance classes led by Kalon, a Parisian fitness brand founded by professional dancers, blending fashion with movement.
Marine Braquet, co-founder of Nomasei alongside footwear designer Paule Tenaillon, expressed enthusiasm about returning to New York. “We didn’t think twice about it,” she stated in an interview with WWD and FN. “Last year, we came on a whim after our Paris pop-up…we were expecting visibility, and we sold loads.”
The Brand’s Journey
Nomasei’s roots trace back to a press introduction in November 2019, which initially sparked e-commerce sales. However, the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic four months later posed significant challenges. As the market began to recover in early 2021, the U.S. emerged as Nomasei’s leading market, accounting for 50% of its sales. This is a stark contrast to the 30% share from France and 10% from the U.K., with the remainder of sales distributed globally.
The brand’s visibility has been bolstered by appearances on popular platforms, including Netflix’s “Emily in Paris,” and endorsements from high-profile celebrities such as Bella and Gigi Hadid, Julia Roberts, and Nicole Kidman. Tenaillon attributes the brand’s recent success to “visibility with a product that’s affordable,” noting that 200 pairs sold for approximately $75,000 within days of a short-notice announcement.
Pricing and Market Position
Nomasei’s pricing strategy positions it as a luxury yet accessible brand, with U.S. prices ranging from $595 for the Nono loafer to $1,095 for over-the-knee boots. This pricing reflects a 15% increase implemented in August due to tariffs on European goods. The founders aimed to create luxury footwear that is comfortable enough for dancing, a vision that led them to leave their positions at Chloé to establish Nomasei.
With extensive backgrounds in high-end fashion, including stints at Chanel, Dior, and Louis Vuitton, Braquet and Tenaillon are committed to sustainable and ethical practices. The brand’s name, derived from the Italian phrase “sei mani,” meaning “six hands,” symbolizes their belief in collaboration and shared success.
Sustainable Practices and Future Goals
Nomasei’s commitment to sustainability is evident in its production practices. The brand partners with a factory in Montopoli, Tuscany, granting it a 15% stake to ensure fair treatment and collaboration. The founders prioritize seasonless styles, high-quality materials sourced from existing stocks, and a preorder system to minimize waste. They even display a footwear repairability index in collaboration with Paris-based cobbler Galoche & Patin, promoting repair and reuse over new purchases.
As of now, Nomasei sells approximately 7,000 pairs annually, with a production model that maintains three months’ worth of inventory. Looking ahead, the brand plans to expand its reach with a pop-up in Notting Hill, London, starting November 19. The customization service, currently available only in Paris and during pop-ups, is set to launch on the website in 2026.
Financial Restructuring and Future Funding
Nomasei’s return to New York comes at a pivotal moment for the brand. In August, the company successfully paid off debts incurred during the pandemic, thanks to a line of credit from its Italian factory. The founders also restructured the business through a friends-and-family funding round in 2023.
Despite experiencing double- and triple-digit year-on-year growth, profitability remained elusive until recently. A strategic reduction in marketing expenses and the introduction of an affiliate program in the U.S. in 2024 have yielded positive results, allowing the company to become profitable while continuing to attract new clients.
Now, Nomasei is poised for its next phase of growth, aiming to raise funds to support its expansion. By early next year, the founders hope to secure a “one-plus-ten” funding strategy, seeking €1 million to solidify their operational foundations and €10 million within two years to accelerate growth.
Conclusion
Nomasei’s return to New York is not just a pop-up; it represents a strategic move in the brand’s evolution as it seeks to solidify its presence in the competitive footwear market. With a commitment to sustainability, ethical practices, and a focus on customer engagement, Nomasei is well-positioned to navigate the challenges of the fashion industry while appealing to a growing base of conscious consumers. As the brand prepares for its next chapter, it remains to be seen how its innovative approach will shape the future of luxury footwear.