Carhartt WIP: From Workwear to Streetwear Icon
PARIS – On his 19th birthday in 1999, Wilfried Atzert had a singular wish: a Carhartt jacket. At that time, Carhartt was primarily recognized in Europe through its licensed offshoot, Carhartt Work In Progress (WIP), which had been established in 1994. This brand redefined the utilitarian workwear of its American parent company, Carhartt Inc., giving it a fashionable twist that resonated with the streetwear culture of the era.
The Evolution of Carhartt WIP
While Carhartt Inc. has its roots in rugged workwear, primarily catering to blue-collar workers in the United States, Carhartt WIP carved out a niche in the European and Asian markets. Here, it became a staple among skaters, graffiti artists, and DJs, transforming the brand’s image from functional to fashionable. Atzert’s journey with Carhartt WIP began at Le Shop, the only store in Paris selling the brand at the time. His career trajectory-from a shop runner to the global CEO-mirrors the brand’s own evolution from utilitarian roots to a streetwear powerhouse.
Today, Carhartt WIP is a significant player in the global fashion landscape, generating approximately €600 million ($703 million) in annual sales and operating in over 80 markets. The brand boasts 63 standalone stores and plans to expand further, with ten new locations set to open by the end of the year.
Cultural Immersion Over Advertising
Atzert attributes much of Carhartt WIP’s success to its unique marketing strategy, which emphasizes cultural immersion rather than traditional advertising. The brand has historically invested in vinyl compilations, zines, and grassroots events rather than billboards. This approach has allowed Carhartt WIP to cultivate authentic relationships with subcultures, sponsoring skate teams and collaborating with underground music collectives.
“We work with people we genuinely like and who already wear the product,” Atzert explained. “If you try to manufacture cool, you usually end up with the opposite.” This philosophy has helped the brand maintain its authenticity, steering clear of celebrity endorsements and influencer marketing.
The Balancing Act of Growth
As Carhartt WIP continues to grow, Atzert faces the challenge of maintaining the brand’s authenticity while expanding its reach. He emphasizes the importance of controlled growth, stating, “We want to last and grow slowly, so we placed caps on orders very early on. Selling out is key; we don’t like to see products on sale.” This strategy aims to prevent overexposure, which could dilute the brand’s status among its core audience.
The Legacy of Carhartt Inc.
Founded in Detroit in 1889, Carhartt Inc. built its reputation on durable fabrics designed for hard-working individuals. The brand’s commitment to quality has attracted attention from various subcultures, including hip-hop and skateboarding, since the early 1990s. Edwin Faeh, a Swiss entrepreneur, recognized the potential for a European adaptation of Carhartt’s workwear and proposed a licensing deal to the Carhartt family. This led to the birth of Carhartt WIP, which retained the brand’s utilitarian essence while appealing to a more fashion-conscious audience.
Luca Benini, a streetwear tastemaker, recalls Carhartt WIP as a foundational brand during the early days of his Italian multi-brand distribution company. He noted that the brand resonated more with the cultural significance of Black American culture than with its workwear origins in Europe.
Navigating Trends and Challenges
Carhartt WIP has experienced steady growth over the past decade, with a 6.3% increase in sales in 2024 compared to the previous year. However, the brand has faced challenges, particularly during the late 2000s and early 2010s when skinny silhouettes dominated fashion. Atzert chose to stay true to the brand’s baggier fits, believing that the pendulum would eventually swing back. This decision proved wise, as baggy styles have made a resurgence, leading to a renewed interest in the brand.
Commitment to Quality and Authenticity
Atzert’s commitment to quality extends to Carhartt WIP’s womenswear line, which has quietly expanded over the past decade. Rather than creating overtly feminine versions of its menswear staples, the brand has maintained the same fabrics and cuts, adjusting only where necessary for functionality. “We didn’t want to create a separate identity,” Atzert stated. “Our women’s customers often prefer the same authenticity, the same fits, just made to work for her.”
Looking Ahead: Future Collaborations and Innovations
As Carhartt WIP prepares for future collaborations, including partnerships with Sacai and Nicholas Daley, Atzert insists that the brand’s core philosophy will remain unchanged. The focus will continue to be on slow growth and maintaining connections to the underground scenes that initially propelled the brand to success.
In addition to clothing, Carhartt WIP has diversified its product offerings, introducing items such as bags, rubber boats, and even ceramic noodle bowls. “Carhartt is basic; maybe people get tired of the same items for 35 years, so we bring a fun twist,” Atzert remarked.
Conclusion
Carhartt WIP’s journey from a niche streetwear brand to a global fashion icon exemplifies the power of authenticity and cultural connection in the fashion industry. As it continues to grow, the brand remains committed to its roots, ensuring that it stays true to the subcultures that have embraced it. With a focus on quality, authenticity, and controlled growth, Carhartt WIP is poised to navigate the complexities of the fashion world while maintaining its unique identity.
