Celebrating a Century of Art Deco: Louis Vuitton’s Role in High-End Travel Accessories
PARIS – As the world commemorates the centenary of the Art Deco movement, Louis Vuitton is taking center stage with a new exhibition that showcases its pivotal role in crafting luxurious travel accessories for the elite of the Jazz Age. The exhibition, titled “Louis Vuitton Art Deco,” opens at LV Dream, an exhibition space strategically located across from the historic Samaritaine department store.
A Glimpse into the Exhibition
The exhibition features an impressive collection of 300 rare items from Louis Vuitton’s archives, offering a unique insight into the brand’s evolution during the Art Deco period. Among the treasures on display are a vanity case designed by the renowned fashion designer Jeanne Lanvin, vintage perfume bottles, and a personalized trunk created for the illustrious couturier Paul Poiret. These artifacts are spread across eight meticulously curated rooms, each telling a story of elegance and craftsmanship.
However, the true highlight of the exhibition may well be Gaston-Louis Vuitton, the grandson of the brand’s founder. His influence on the brand’s cultural positioning is profound, as he was instrumental in integrating artistic collaborations into the house’s identity. “Gaston-Louis Vuitton, who was himself the artist in the family, led the way by bringing artistic collaborations into the house for the first time,” noted Bleue-Marine Massard, the exhibition’s curator.
Gaston-Louis Vuitton: The Artistic Visionary
Gaston-Louis Vuitton’s contributions to the brand during the 1920s were transformative. He not only oversaw product design and window displays but also played a crucial role in the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in 1925. This landmark event solidified Paris’s status as the epicenter of modern decorative arts, attracting decorators, manufacturers, and artists from around the globe.
The exhibition’s second room pays homage to Vuitton’s unique design flair, featuring a recreation of the brand’s stand at the Grand Palais, adorned in luxurious green and gray velvet. This space showcases grooming sets and trunks that echo the original Vuitton building at 70 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, now home to a flagship Sephora store.
Under Gaston-Louis’s guidance, the brand collaborated with prominent designers such as Pierre-Émile Legrain and Camille Cless-Brothier, resulting in exquisite objects like crystal flacons and vanity mirrors. “Gaston really added that artistic flair. Under his guidance, objects became truly beautiful and refined,” Massard explained. His vision injected a sense of elegance and exceptional craftsmanship into the brand, working with some of the most talented artisans of the time.
A Showcase of Luxury and Craftsmanship
The exhibition also features grooming sets once owned by musical legends like Igor Stravinsky and Ignacy Paderewski, crafted from rare materials such as tortoiseshell and ivory-materials that are now heavily regulated to protect endangered species. Among the standout pieces is the Milano beauty trunk, which boasts a striking array of white geometric brushes set against a vibrant red lining. This trunk, along with a 1920s dressing table designed in collaboration with Legrain, has inspired Louis Vuitton’s recent foray into beauty products, including a makeup line developed by renowned makeup artist Pat McGrath.
Massard highlighted the significance of the dressing table, stating, “We only know of two examples: this one, which was acquired just a few years ago, and another that Karl Lagerfeld bought around the same time. That one’s hard to trace now, but it’s especially significant for the house because of its iconic touch of red.”
Documenting a Legacy
The exhibition also serves as a treasure trove of documents, including advertisements and photographs by Thérèse Bonney, capturing women with fashionable bobs at their vanity tables. Much of this material was meticulously gathered by Gaston-Louis Vuitton himself, who was known for his obsessive documentation of the brand’s creations. “What’s really remarkable about Gaston is how obsessively he documented everything the house produced. He photographed absolutely everything,” Massard remarked.
Gaston-Louis Vuitton is often regarded as the brand’s first archivist, laying the groundwork for what would become a rich heritage collection. His curiosity and dedication to preserving the brand’s history are evident in the exhibition, which includes a notebook detailing his grandfather’s journey to Paris at the age of 16, where he secured an apprenticeship with a box-maker.
The Evolution of Louis Vuitton’s Leather Goods
The exhibition also highlights the birth of Louis Vuitton’s leather goods in the early 1920s, showcasing a series of smaller handbags, minaudières, and evening purses that continue to influence contemporary designs. In one display case, vintage grooming sets are juxtaposed with modern reinterpretations by current artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière, who has embraced the Art Deco spirit in his designs.
The final room of the exhibition celebrates the art of travel during the Roaring Twenties, featuring photographs, clothing cases, and recent collections inspired by the era. Ghesquière’s cruise 2020 collection, which draws inspiration from New York’s Art Deco skyline, is prominently displayed alongside designs by Marc Jacobs and Pharrell Williams, the creative director of menswear at Vuitton.
Looking Ahead
Items from Gaston-Louis Vuitton’s collection will also be featured in the upcoming “1925-2025: One Hundred Years of Art Deco” exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, set to open on October 22. This collaboration underscores the enduring legacy of the Art Deco movement and its influence on contemporary design.
Conclusion
The “Louis Vuitton Art Deco” exhibition not only celebrates the brand’s rich history but also highlights the artistic vision that has shaped its identity over the past century. As visitors explore the intricate designs and luxurious materials that defined an era, they are reminded of the timeless elegance that continues to resonate in the world of high fashion and luxury travel. This exhibition serves as a testament to Louis Vuitton’s enduring legacy and its commitment to craftsmanship and artistry, ensuring that the spirit of Art Deco remains alive for generations to come.
